Portugal in several stages

On the way the dolphins, 2 times the same day! The Spaniards who say goodbye and the Portuguese who welcome us! (video)

Viana Do Castelo

Wind stronger and stronger when arriving at Viana do Castello. Very nice coastline but an imposing port area from the outside. Bridge that opens to our approach (video) to allow us to take a place in the marina. It should have taken the move AR, but Kéjadenn is not very strong in this sense and I'm not hot to ask him to do well at once without damage to the neighbors! We thus slip in AV between two sailboats on hangers and butts to the pontoon. Ok and all, sailor of the harbor and neighboring occupants, help us very nicely!

Welcome in French or in English according to the people! My Portuguese is not fired and I should review my lessons +++ The port is quite small, and the sailboats arrived after we will stay on the pontoon waiting on the edge of Rio Lima (current ++!)

Town tour….

We are witnessing a parade of fanfares and costumes (video)

Then we climb to St. Lucia with the funicular, means of transport "new"!

Mist from the departure of the port of Viana do Castelo, we do not see at 100 meters! It is absolutely necessary to trust the computer and the GPS to find the way of the exit (thanks to the electronics!). Small speed on the water but not small on the bottom because the tide goes down and Rio Lima pushes us a lot! Everything is going well but the haze lasts, lasts until 14h

Fortunately it ends up getting up and our friends dolphins are still with us! (link)


Very warm welcome to Marina Douro with a wealth of information on Porto, transport and places to visit and / or restoration interesting! Thanks to them!

The next appointment is made by phone for a reunion with Marie-Luce and Robert accompanied by Lucie and her family.

We spend the day together using almost all means of transport in the city (ferry between south and north of the Douro, old tram, cable car, funicular, for buses and the train will be for later!)

Then Marie-Luce and Robert choose to sleep on board the same evening, but the movements of the boat at the pontoon decided otherwise because Marie-Luce takes seasickness and so decides, after a meal at the Tavern of São Pedro d ' Afurada,

to sleep at the Ibis hotel next door and to join us the next day to continue the visits of Porto.

While waiting for them in the morning, I take the opportunity to begin the work of necessary paintings on the small points of rust of the candlesticks, square of bar and the hitch of with the fisherman!

A meal at the tavern and visit the cellars "Churchills" of Porto with a little sweat to get there (slightly late!) Because the walk is the fastest way to go through "ribines" and stairs steep enough!

Then it's time they take the bus to go to the metro station to reach Villa do Conde where wait for Lucie and his family, Goodbye and good luck! Emotions and heartaches are at the rendezvous, it is probably the last friends we leave before seeing others before long ....

Next day: painting +++ and engine drain + electric cable protection of the windlass. Joëlle took the opportunity to protect the point of raging lazy-bags with low shrouds. It also tackles the change of Velcro fastening the solar panel on the cap. The dried, sun-hardened glue does not make it easy, but it works!

Spanish flea jumps in Galicia more ...

After a bus ride back to Santiago, we set off for Ria d'Arosa and, more precisely, Santa Eugenia de Ribeira to join Gwenn and Philippe, who have been sailing there for some time!

As I write these lines, Philippe and Gwen, with two other crew members, are going back to Brittany crossing the Bay of Biscay. Not without some apprehension for novices! We wish them good wind and beautiful sea ...

For us the cape is to the south, but before we "hang out" a little in the Ria of Arosa. It's nice and we are waiting for news from our fridge to get it repaired in Vigo ...

... but watch out for the rock in the middle! Philip thank you for your indications, there was still the rock !!

Then a stop in the Ria de Pondevedra, in Sanxenxo, to see a little how it is!

Bof! BIG motor boats in the marina, not much interest for the rest. BUT news of our fridge that can be repaired soon after tomorrow (Friday), so we come out of this ria, the next day, passing well off these unwelcoming pebbles! Especially with a swell a little strong!


The repair of the fridge takes place at the pontoon of Marina Davila, which welcomes us very kindly.

The technician of Hermafer does not seem surprised by the smallness of the place where it must intervene. And in just over an hour the fridge works, phew! A new group with a good gas refill. Muchas Gracias! But it costs us the modest sum of 650 €!

Life on board is organized between laundry, idleness and ride in city bike loaned by the marina!

From the top of the park, the view of the Vigo estuary is magnificent.

Ciès Islands

Highly protected islands (National Maritime Natural Park!) where you have to ask permission to wet (link) distributed by the day and limited in number! That does not prevent that there is a lot of people because the passenger ships are numerous to make the shuttles all the day. A campsite is also organized on site. The walks are worth the trip and its "hassle" administrative!

By cons the arrival on the beach is quite "sporty" and very wet for the crew of Kéjadenn. A test of arrival with the bow to the sea at the last moment, results in a good shower for Joëlle trying to hold the annex in the wave that goes down the beach, and a big splash in my back (waterproof bag THANK YOU!). The annex climb on the beach and we go walking on almost all the trails of these two islands (the Norte and San Martin!)

To anticipate the "wet" of the arrival, it's swimwear atmosphere to put the annex to the water in waves still brittle on the beach, despite the tide that came down! It is cool but not too much, so I bathe on arrival at Kéjadenn. A short tour of the boat, a descent to the pick and return to the heat !!

It rolls a lot, we wait a little, then decide to start to visit the estuary and get the lamp ordered on Amazon.


We anchor between the beach and the entrance of the port, not far from buoys nets or lockers!

Wake up in full sleep (about midnight and a half) by a shock in the front !! It is a local fisherman who, recovering his line of lockers, our chain must be on, hit us. Small poc in the starboard bow (painting to resume in Porto with the stanchions of candlesticks!).

He recovers his line without any other worries and rests a little further without forgetting to empty his lockers (shrimps and octopus + starfish!). Back to bed and sleep ...


The project was to go to Bayona, but with the swell and the north wind we prefer Moaña in the north of the Vigo estuary. Indeed, the wind rose quite strongly when we left the marina Davila de Vigo, where we came to do diesel and get the package from Amazon (lamp "anchor light").

Mussel parks in the bay and other anchor boats on the beach.

In the early morning, we discover a whole "pile" of fishermen on foot who "rake the bottom" to pick up hulls, probably and poof an hour later, while the sea goes down again, they are no longer there!

The weather is milder! En route to :


An arrival respecting the markings, especially to broadly round the "block" of pebbles that is in the north of the bay. Anchor anchorage next to a Breton sailboat with 5 or 6 meters of water. Descent to land to visit the "Parador" Bayona Castle, with ramparts, converted into a luxury hotel. The park is visitable for 1 € uro (it's worth it!). A tower up on the ramparts and another on the way down give us nice views and a good two hours of walking! Beware of Joëlle's knee that leads him hard at times!

Return to the boat to put on clothes before going to taste the last tapas at the bistro.

Tomorrow we will drive to Portugal and Viana do Castelo. Other cultures, another language to rediscover ...

Santiago de Compostela

A pilgrimage ?

A curiosity simply to this world famous site and as we were not far, we thought it would be a shame not to see that!

So that's what we saw ...

The steps of access to the relics of St Jacques testify to numerous passages!

Many churches and other monuments.

Street ambiances

A parade of local costumes with pretty hats on a Celtic air (click here)

And then back with the bus, as if to go, 1h30, much of which is along the bottom of the Muros / Noia estuary. Many places look very pretty and perhaps even welcoming for a sailboat like Kéjadenn, with its 1.80 m draft. But we are expected tomorrow at Santa Eugenia de Ribeira in La ria d'Arosa just a little further south ....

Spanish flea jumps in Galicia

Ria de Viveiro


The arrival in the Ria of A Coruña, is done with a tailwind which forces and obliges us to roll completely the genoa without storing the spinnaker, which does not prevent us to advance still to 6 or 7 knots! We are "greeted" by nothing less than 2 freighters (one coming in and the other coming out) plus a tanker that requires 3 tugs all by itself to get into the port of El Ferrol! It's a lot of people on the water and Kéjadenn has to fight his way while still moving fast enough !! Once everyone is gone, we go to Ares for the night.

In the morning, after a quiet breakfast, while raising the anchorage, the guide no longer wants to work. There are a few meters left to hand over. With the anchor, it's not a small weight! Joëlle is doing very well and we go to Camariñas, where it will fix because it has already made this kind of whim, and we do not want to do his job all the time!


Repairing the windlass: by visiting the electrical circuit from one end to the other, I find a connection on a circuit breaker that was loose and another on the other end (relay side) which was also loose and a little " heated! Key shots on all that and it works again and again .... Until the next failure?

This is the feast of the "Virgen del Carmen", an annual opportunity to put the city in turmoil: carnival for adults and children, music galore and quite late in the night and all this for a week!

... and discover the local beer!

To get to the next stage, you have to pass the mythical Cabo Finisterre and its bad reputation puts a little pressure on us!


Very pretty where we will only "pass"! Short visit of the city and tomorrow we take the bus to Santiago de Compostela

The Ria de Muros, we will see from the bus that makes a good part of the tour before going to drop us in Santiago de Compostela ...

Spanish flea jumps in Asturias


Follows a "comic" of the History of the place, which we liked! ... (to zoom, you can do it with the keys of your keyboard "ctrl" and "+", "ctrl" and "-" for the opposite obviously!)

A meeting of Bretons travelers, around a glass and tapas, makes us know very nice characters!

Annaïg and Lannig.
Lola, their dog, does not like to be in the photos!


The continuation of the history of the refrigerator interests you perhaps?

After a few calls in Spanish, of course, a very nice woman comes on board and after a certain time of inspections and various tests, tells me that the compressor is dead, there is an oil leak, more than gas in the circuit and that the availability of parts would be about 10 days .... A convenience store of the same brand is contacted in Vigo, where we would be from here to 10 days, and as we are "sabado" I should recontacter it early next week. All this with the help of Google translation from time to time! Following the next number …..

These annoying news will not prevent us from making this stopover a little "greedy" time for the palate, for the ears and for the eyes. Judge yourself by clicking on this link.

We will leave Asturias without fridge but satiated and close for a step a little longer towards the beginning of Galicia ... ..

Spanish flea jumps in Cantabria


Arrival originally planned in Santoña, but it is only a private port and all access to land are locked! Direction Laredo who is opposite!

A brand new port, with catways as wide as pontoons and as long as Kéjadenn (it's not always the case!), But still very empty!

The walls of the old town are decorated in different ways, old and new, but always in keeping with its history.

The fridge breaks down! No more cold in a country where it's hot enough, it's a shame. Buying ice to start, the "cooler" is back! Then we look at how to troubleshoot, and there the French technical service tells us a Spanish address in Gijon (unplanned stopover but will become "mandatory"!)


Stop in Santander (not planned either!) After being well stirred in 25 to 30 knots of wind upwind with a swell of 3 to 4 meters (2 reefs in the SG and 6 turns to the genoa). 37 miles instead of 20 direct, that's still not our favorite pace!

OUF !! it does not stir and Joëlle takes the opportunity to cook (bread and tomato pie, Yum!)

An anchorage at the beach at the entrance of Santander, on the edge of the channel.

San Vicente de la Barquera

Sea and mountain atmosphere along Cantabria

Royal welcome by a local fisherman who invites us to ask Kéjadenn on his dead body perso, super and thank you! Here again the beach, or rather the sandbar, is not far!

Visit Castel del Rey where we discover beautiful mudflats!

A VHF antenna, which bouncy after the good shaken before Santander, forces Jean-Yves to take the air higher! Thanks to the steps and the harness, but also to the local fishermen who slow down so as not to make too much waves!

Euskadi «following»

San Sebastian Donostia

The harbor is very small but the anchorage behind Santa Clara Island is comfortable, buoys (pay) or anchor!

An exit in the old town of Donostia, We take the Spanish rhythm with our first "paella del mar" watered by a first sangria.

21h, 22h all the Spanish are in the street, babies, the elderly, the disabled, teens, families ... Around a drink, it speaks loudly in Basque, in Spanish, what a hubbub! It's pretty good atmosphere.


In the harbor, the "green" swimming pool welcomes bathers and "divers" are always on the docks and stairs. All dikes serve as diving boards.

A walk in this village, all in height, it climbs hard!

Even in the upper town, it is so narrow that the bus can not turn around! see the video …

A little tour in the new "family lands" ...

Christine and François take us to their new home in Savignac to taste the coolness of their pool (30 °). Their electric bikes allow us to discover a small part of the surroundings.

Jeanne, "under spinnaker" for 8 months and a half, makes us a surprise ...

A newcomer to the family. Welcome to DIANE this Friday, June 28, 2019 at 14:29!